Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
